1981 Universal Indiana Jones Fedora Herbert Johnson Poet Hat

The Indiana Jones Fedora Herbert Johnson Poet Hat was a brown felt fedora that came into existence through the manufacturing efforts of Herbert Johnson LTD and was officially released to the public in 1981.

Background

The hat was designed specifically as an integral component of the costume design for Harrison Ford’s character in the film *Raiders of the Lost Ark*, although its origins can be traced back to earlier fashions that emerged in 20th-century Europe. Herbert Johnson LTD, a British hatmaking company that was established in 1889, had previously produced similar styles that were worn by military officers and civilians alike prior to the release of the film. The design of the hat drew loosely from the fedoras that were worn by poets and academics during the 1920s—a detail that is emphasized by the inclusion of the term “Poet” in its title, which some sources have linked to the public image of North Carolina poet laureate James Larkin Pearson during the mid-20th century.

Costume designer Deborah Nadoolman Landis aimed for a distinctive “lived-in” appearance, requesting multiple iterations of the hat in order to achieve the right balance of ruggedness combined with a certain level of refinement. The final version of the hat featured a tapered crown and a 2.5-inch brim, dimensions that were commonly seen in fedoras produced during the interwar era. Unlike many film props that are custom-made for the actors, the hat was not specifically tailored for Ford but rather adapted from the existing stock models that were offered by Herbert Johnson. Historical accounts regarding Austrian hatter Benno Stroheim—who was the father of the filmmaker Erich von Stroheim—suggest that early 20th-century European hatters may have exerted an influence on the block shape of the hat, although there is no documented direct lineage to support this assertion.

Features

The construction of the fedora utilized rabbit felt, which was a standard material commonly employed for mid-range hats during the 1980s, and it featured a grosgrain ribbon band that measured 1.5 inches in width. Key identifiers of this particular hat included a teardrop-shaped crown crease and a “center dent” that ran from the front to the back—a style that was more commonly associated with fedoras produced in the 1930s than those from later decades. A small ventilation hole that was punched into the left side of the crease became a topic of discussion among fans, although Herbert Johnson later clarified that this was merely an accidental byproduct resulting from the aging process that occurred during production, and not an intentional design feature.

Measurements varied slightly across different hats due to the manual shaping process employed by the hatmakers. The original hat that was used on screen had a circumference of 59 cm, which fit Ford’s head size, while retail versions that were sold to the public ranged from a circumference of 55–63 cm. Other notable details included:
– An unlined interior that featured a leather sweatband stamped with the words “Herbert Johnson LTD Savile Row”
– Undyed stitching that matched the color of the brown felt
– A raw edge brim that had minimal wire reinforcement
These features were more aligned with utilitarian European outdoor hats rather than formal dress accessories, reflecting the archaeological fieldwork context of the character.

Popularity and Legacy

Following the release of *Raiders of the Lost Ark* in 1981, Herbert Johnson witnessed a significant increase in orders for the Poet model, although the sales figures were relatively modest when compared to those of mass-market hat brands. The hat made reappearances in subsequent Indiana Jones films, featuring minor modifications such as darker felt in *Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom* (1984) and a slightly wider ribbon in subsequent installments. Its cultural impact was further cemented by offscreen references, such as congressional records from 1992 that described labor leader Dennis Rivera wearing an “Indiana Jones-style fedora” during various political campaigns.

Critics noted the hat’s important role in reviving public interest in fedoras during the 1980s, although it did not manage to ignite a sustained fashion trend. Academic analyses, including those that compared it to the costuming associated with Faulknerian literary characters, positioned the hat as a bridge between utilitarian workwear and mythic archetypes. Unlike the merchandise associated with Star Wars, the hat was not widely licensed for toys, with only two authorized replicas produced before the year 2000. Its association with adventure narratives has persisted in pop culture, appearing in a wide range of mediums from 1990s comic strips to fan recreations on early internet forums.

Video Reviews and Commercials

Raiders of the Lost Ark, released on June 12, 1981, introduced Indiana Jones, a globe-trotting archaeologist battling Nazi forces to recover the powerful Ark of the Covenant. Directed by Steven Spielberg and starring Harrison Ford, the film inspired the narrator’s love for fedoras and adventure, and led to memorable fan encounters with cast members.

Availability and Collectability

Original hats that were produced during the 1981–1983 production run are now quite scarce, with estimates suggesting that fewer than 500 of these hats were sold directly by Herbert Johnson. These early models did not feature the “Indiana Jones” branding that was later added to replicas, making authentication reliant on the liner stamps as well as the composition of the felt. A notable auction in 2022 saw a screen-used hat sell for the impressive sum of $18,750, while unworn retail versions typically fetch prices ranging from $2,000 to $4,000 depending on their condition.

Modern reproductions have faced criticism for utilizing cheaper materials such as wool blends instead of the original rabbit felt. Licensed versions produced by Disney and Lucasfilm LTD after the year 2000 introduced features that were not accurate, such as pre-distressed weathering and wider brims. Collectors frequently prioritize hats that come with provenance paperwork, as the lack of serial numbers on vintage models complicates the verification process. Despite its niche status, the hat continues to maintain a dedicated following, with online communities diligently tracking variations in ribbon color and crease patterns across the various film sequels and reissues.